A Day in Kanmon Strait: Fireworks, Curry, and Fugu Tasting

On the night of the Kanmon Strait Fireworks Festival, the sheer power of the display makes my eyes dart around. Fifteen thousand fireworks explode with a bang from both shores. This experience—lights crossing over the sea—is something you won’t find anywhere else in Japan.

That said, the moment I stepped onto the platform at Mojiko Station on August 13, the retro brick reflected the heat, and I felt sweat escaping in every direction. “Why did I come all the way to the border in this sweltering heat during summer vacation?” I might have regretted it for a second. But it’s okay. I dove into a baked curry topped with charred cheese in Mojiko, walked through the dark tunnel beneath the sea on my own two feet, and touched the translucent texture of fugu in Shimonoseki. It’s this journey that makes the thrill of the fireworks bursting in the night sky feel even more exhilarating.

In this article, I’ll suggest a one-day model plan to fully enjoy the food and stunning views of the Kanmon Strait while navigating the heat and crowds! Let’s get started.

Kanmon Strait Fireworks Festival One-Day Model Course

On the day of the fireworks, parking around Mojiko becomes completely dysfunctional by evening. “Just driving there” is a definite no-go. The right choice is to take the JR train—there’s really no other option.

Take the Shinkansen from Hakata to Kokura (about 15 minutes), then switch to the local line to Mojiko (about 30 minutes). To prepare for the 15,000 fireworks, I start my sightseeing and meals early in the morning. Using the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel, you can walk to Shimonoseki (about 15 minutes one way, free of charge).

• 10:00 Depart from JR Hakata Station (Shinkansen to Kokura)
• 10:20 Arrive at JR Kokura Station → Local line to Mojiko Station
• 10:50 Arrive at JR Mojiko Station → Stroll around Mojiko Retro
• 12:00 Lunch at Gari Honpo for baked curry
• 13:30 Head to the entrance of the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel (about 20 minutes on foot from Mojiko Station or by bus)
• 14:00 Walk through the pedestrian tunnel to Shimonoseki
• 14:30 Explore around Karato Market
• 17:30 Dinner at Fuku cuisine Shinoda (enter as it opens and leave quickly)
• 18:30 Return to Mojiko by Kanmon Ferry (about 5 minutes)
• 19:00 Move to the fireworks viewing area and secure a spot
• 19:35 Start of the Kanmon Strait Fireworks Festival (until 20:50)
• 21:00 End of the show → Head back to Mojiko or Kokura/Hakata

First Stop: Gari Honpo (Mojiko)

Under the relentless sun, I start walking through the retro streets of Mojiko. Mixed with the sea breeze, I catch a whiff of burnt cheese and spices. No, it’s not my imagination—the whole town seems to be wrapped in the aura of “baked curry.”

At 9 Port Town, you’ll find “Gari Honpo.” Even before climbing the stairs, the savory aroma shakes my brain awake. Curry in the blazing midday sun. And not just any curry—this is piping hot, oven-baked curry. It feels like a completely mad choice, but this journey is about to kick off in earnest.

The Charm of the Place

Mojiko’s baked curry is a simple yet aggressive dish: rice topped with curry, cheese, and an egg, all baked in the oven.

The roux at Gari Honpo is thick, with a rich spice flavor that oozes out. The moment the sizzling hot plate arrives at my table, I hear a fierce “sizzle.” Steam rises. When that hits my face, my primal hunger completely overpowers the summer heat. As I dig in, the soft-boiled egg breaks open, mixing with the rich roux. Honestly, it’s a guilty pleasure.

Shop Information

• Address: 9-2 Awa-ya Building 1F, Mojiku, Kitakyushu, Fukuoka, 801-0852, Japan
• Access: About a 3-minute walk from JR Mojiko Station
• Hours: 11:00 AM – 8:00 PM

Check reviews and English menu on Tabelog

2nd Stop: Fugu Cuisine Shinoda (Shimonoseki)

The Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel. Walking through the ocean floor to cross the prefectural border is, when you think about it, quite a ridiculous shortcut. Sweaty and out of breath, I emerge into Yamaguchi Prefecture. Even though it’s the same strait, the name changes—this feeling of crossing borders adds a little spice to the journey.

In Shimonoseki, fugu is called “fuku.” Just a few hours before the fireworks, I slip under the noren of “Fugu Cuisine Shinoda” right at 5:30 PM when it opens. This place has been loved by locals for years—simple and honest, without any gimmicks. The moment I settle in, the battle against the oppressive heat eases up a bit.

What Makes This Place Special

The best way to experience the allure of fugu is undoubtedly through “tessa” (sliced fugu). The white flesh is cut so thin that you can see the plate’s pattern through it. It’s beautifully arranged like a fan, and I can already feel my taste buds tingling just by looking at it.

I scoop a few slices with my chopsticks, dip them in ponzu, and take a bite. The unique bounce and the refined sweetness that seeps out with each chew make me think, “Ah, I’m really glad I walked all this way.” It’s a bit of a splurge for dinner before the fireworks, but leaving the restaurant feeling satisfied, with just enough room in my stomach, sets me up perfectly for the emotional experience of the fireworks a few hours later.

Store Information

• Address: 7-9 Imaura-cho, Shimonoseki, Yamaguchi 750-0064, Japan
• Access: About a 10-minute walk from the Kanmon Pedestrian Tunnel (Shimonoseki side exit), about a 15-minute walk from JR Shimonoseki Station
• Hours: 12:00 PM – 2:00 PM / 5:30 PM – 9:00 PM
• Closed: Tuesdays and Wednesdays (open on August 13, as it falls on a Thursday)

Check reviews and English menu on Tabelog

Access, Route Guide, and Recommended Hotels

Getting from Hakata to Mojiko takes about 15 minutes on the JR Shinkansen to Kokura, then another 30 minutes on the local line. It’s just under an hour in total. If you have a JR Kyushu Rail Pass, it covers the unreserved seats on the Shinkansen, so booking in advance on Klook can really cut down on travel stress and expenses.

Honestly, after the fireworks, Mojiko Station is a bit of a nightmare with crowd control at the ticket gates. You’ll wait so long to board the train that it feels like an eternity. The best way to avoid this fatigue is to stay overnight in Mojiko or just hop on a train to Kokura and collapse there.

① Premier Hotel Mojiko (Mojiko Area)

After the fireworks, there’s nothing quite like the feeling of walking past the crowds heading to the station and thinking, “I can just walk back to my hotel.” It’s pure luxury. This hotel, located in the heart of Mojiko Retro, offers a serene view of the Kanmon Strait at night—perfect for savoring the festival’s afterglow.

• Address: Japan, 〒801-0852 Fukuoka Prefecture, Kitakyushu City, Moji Ward, Minato-machi 9-11
• Access: About a 3-minute walk from JR Mojiko Station

② Hotel Crown Palace Kokura (Kokura Area)

If you’re looking to escape from Mojiko to Kokura after the fireworks, this route requires a bit more energy. But it gives you more freedom for the next day. From Kokura, you can zip back to Hakata on the Shinkansen in no time, and it connects you to the food stalls at Tanga Market. It’s a short walk from Kokura Station, making it a solid base for a good night’s sleep.

• Address: Japan, 〒802-0077 Fukuoka Prefecture, Kitakyushu City, Kokura Kita Ward, Umadaka 1-2-1
• Access: About a 10-minute walk from JR Kokura Station

For the 15,000 Fireworks Viewed from Both Shores

After devouring a baked curry in the scorching heat of Mojiko, I stubbornly walked under the sea and encountered the shimmering “fugu” in Shimonoseki. Then, at night, I felt the thunderous roar of fireworks rising from both sides of the strait wash over me. With such intensity, by the end of the day, I was left with a pleasant fatigue that cleared my mind.

What started as a simple plan to “watch fireworks” turned into a dramatic journey with just one train ride and a bit of walking. Summer nights at the Kanmon Strait are made for such reckless enjoyment.